Info - How to fix a damaged board

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Zarmple
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:33 am

A while ago i managed to ride over a sharp rock and make a ding in my AaronHadlow Pro 130cm Board.

It wasnt tooo awful and not too deep around 6inches long and only an inch into the board itself. Also the skin of the board has started coming off at the tips (it's only cosmetic) which should be fixable as well.

I have managed to find a great guy who has taken on the repair as an interest and is putting the process on his website.

progress is on:
http://hartland.org.uk/ckb/repair.htm
or http://customkiteboard.com/ and under REPAIRS

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Last edited by Zarmple on Sat Aug 26, 2006 8:41 am, edited 3 times in total.
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JGTR
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Fri Aug 19, 2005 9:44 pm

Fibregalss car body filler is what Id use....hard as nails that stuff, not too sure how it will cope with the water over time, but a good coat of paint should help it
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Zarmple
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Wed Sep 21, 2005 6:13 pm

The story so far:
1) the PVC top layer has de-laminated at the tips. (apparently a
common problem for the Xcelerator and AHPro boards)


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2) The rail has been impacted fracturing the micro-balloon epoxy construction.
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3) Damage to the "Duragrind" base at the edge.
4) An attempt at repair has been carried out.


Fortunately the carbon on the top layer is still intact but the sand and
water has hydraulically forced the top & bottom skin away from the core.
This has been compounded by a repair using body filler, which acts as a
riser or hinge on the other structures. I will need to replace the detached
core material and bond back with carbon reinforcement under a vacuum
bag. The "Duragrind" base will also need treatment at the rail edge.

Fortunately the edge delamination does not extend to far inboard.
Damaged core removed and staggered cut back of each layer near the rail.

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Tips with top layer ground back.
The damage at the tips, now obvious, probably caused the PVC top layer
delamination due to water & sand ingress. Note: Always repair earlier
rather than later!!


Take note all you Xcelerator and AHpro users!!!

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Cosmetic damage to the micro balloon mix at the rail.
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The following stepped repair process was carried out. The final cure was
carried out at a reduced temperature of 90-100 C for 12 hours in order to
prevent damage to the original Airex core material.


Herex foam stepped and shaped to fit cut out section
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Herex bonded in place with Epoxy under Vacuum
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Herex cut back and tapered to existing carbon
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Carbon Pre-preg applied & stepped to existing carbon laminate
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Release Film applied
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Prior to breather fabric and Elastomax bagging film
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Bagged up with breather and vac'd down
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Thermostatic heater over repair area
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Removal of films after cure
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all that is apparently left to do is:
1)Check match for paint.
2)Obtain UHMWPE(Ultra High Molecular Weight PolyEthylene)
sheet material for base repair.

Even though its a fix it should eb as string as the original as he has used
the prepreg carbon to repair the lower skin.

More updates at a later date.
all from
http://hartland.org.uk/ckb/repair.htm
more info about board building at:
http://www.customkiteboard.com/
A huge thanks to Paul for all his time energy and info!
Last edited by Zarmple on Sat Aug 26, 2006 8:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Rake
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Thu Sep 22, 2005 9:56 am

nice repair....although I could think of an easier vac setup with a partial bag as opposed to a full bag. good show tho......especially the stepped foam insert.

how long did this reair take ?
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Fred
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Thu Sep 22, 2005 10:20 am

My Xelerator is starting to show the same problems at the tips as yours. Nothing that I really have to sort out just yet, but I'll be interested to see how your costetic repair turns out. The other option is to take it out to Cape Town when Mark's out there and see if they'll reapply the top layer for me. I've heard they're nice guys.
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Zarmple
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Thu Sep 22, 2005 11:13 am

i have no idea how much time has been spent on the repair so far, but it does seem a fair amount of time.
once the board has fixed i will ask the guy who is doing it for me.

fred: yeah, would be worth seeing if they would fix it for you in south africa. i imagine to get it properly fixed and pay for it over here would cost a fair fortune. :evil:
skyte
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Thu Sep 22, 2005 1:05 pm

wish I could repair like that! interesting to see how it should be done.

my repair to the Crazy Fly board that was hit by a windsurfer went something like this...

1. trim tatty bits off carbon.
2. poke about inside the board with something sharp.
3. hacksaw bits off ABS rail that are getting in the way.
4. cut out bits of carbon that Ron sent in the post to fit in triangular shaped hole.
5. Stand board on it's edge, level, hole facing upwards.
6. mix resin and pour into hole.
7. Curse repeatedly as resin dribbles out all over the board and kitechen table.
8. Curse further at being stupid enough to think resin wouldn't leak out through carbon.
9. wipe everything clean and repeat process this time clamping plastic film that Ron posted with carbon over the hole to seal it.
10. leave resin to dry.
11. poke resin before it's properly dry.
12. remove clamps to find at least one dribble across the board that is now set solid.
13. sand off excess resin dribbles.
14. mix more resin to fill in hole again by approx volume of 2 dribbles worth.
15. leave to dry
16 poke before dry
17 curse at stupidity again
18 remove clamps
19 sand again
20 repeat steps 14-19 until happy with result.

20a. PM Ron with news of repair. Learn from Ron what I should have done and what the sheet of fibreglass, also included with carbon, was for.

21. Get back on the water... Yay!

21a. watch crack slowly propagate with every session across top sheet of the board
21b. try to ignore possibility of crack propagating on bottom of board under strategicly placed sticker
21c. notice rail feels squishy when grabbing
21d. notice extra flex in centre of board on landing

22. Face plant on kiteloop landing coz tips submerge due to excessive flex in centre of board.

23. Strip useable parts off board and apply to new board :)

It's all about the enjoyment and satisfaction of fixing it yourself tho.
Tony
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Thu Sep 22, 2005 2:40 pm

Good info guys, we'll make this a sticky so it ain't lost in the bowels of KITEBOARDER!

Tony
Vinda
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Thu Sep 22, 2005 2:41 pm

Nice to see my old board back on the water!
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Rake
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Thu Sep 22, 2005 3:28 pm

Skyte - Told you to give it to me to do ! :lol:

Zarmps - this is one reason I dont do repairs like that too often - vI could half build a new board in the time it takes...but if its considered to be a loved one ..... 8)
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Zarmple
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Fri Sep 23, 2005 11:20 am

Rake: i have to agree with you. The cost of time involved on fixing this board would be huge and not worth it unless you were wanting a hobby and to find out how to repair boards. its a learning excercise for some people, and also a bit of fun.
Last edited by Zarmple on Mon Oct 31, 2005 1:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Zarmple
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Thu Oct 06, 2005 4:55 pm

An update:

BASE REPAIR
Base material cut away using matched template with new base material
obtained in 4 days!! from Tognar in USA http://www.tognar.com

A Black patch was used instead of clear as the cut out was made a feature
(rather than disguise, it which would have been very difficult to colour
match) Again this was stepped larger than the last removed layer in order
to stagger the repair & increase its strength. The repair material bonds
extremely well with the Epoxy adhesive. (Prior peel tests proved the bond
exceeded the shear strength of the material its was bonded to.)

Treated surface of UHMWPE (P-Tex) with applied Epoxy adhesive
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Base patch in position prior to bagging
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Tip repair with carbon re-enforcement
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Vac down again to remove any trapped air bubbles & left for 12 hours for
epoxy adhesive to set. Patch scraped down & trimmed to match original base.
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PAINTWORK

Repaired surfaces rubbed down and treated with epoxy and Microballoon filler.
Areas masked off & plastic primer applied and rubbed down with 1500 grit.

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Pic's of board re-spray with "matched original" colours.
The centre area is original the tails have been sprayed.

Base showing patched area
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Top prior to rub-down & UV protection
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Detail of spliced patch of P-Tex.
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Re-Painted tails
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Nearly finished!! (apart from UV protection coat)


More updates at a later date.
all from
http://hartland.org.uk/ckb/repair.htm
more info about board building at:
http://www.customkiteboard.com/
A huge thanks to Paul for all his time energy and info!
Last edited by Zarmple on Sat Aug 26, 2006 8:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Zarmple
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Wed Oct 26, 2005 12:31 pm

Gloss UV protective coat applied.(International Perfection, 2-pack poly-urethane)

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Anti-slip additive added to top coat, masked up & applied to grip areas.
And Decals applied

You Can compare the two and see just how improved it is:
Image Image


there were two types of repair carried out:
Structural Repair

Manufactured boards use exotic materials and processes that are hard to duplicate for DIY repairs.
One of the main problems is bonding the various materials together to produce a homogenous laminate that matches the original construction. A considerable amount of time is involved, as each stage of the repair has to cure properly and be shaped by hand. In fact the labour involved for repairing a broken board, when de-lamination has occurred, is probably the same as constructing a new board. So it depends how badly you want to repair the board! The materials are fairly cheap, (about 50 GBP, for this particular repair). Paul used one of the standard composite repair techniques)
Most of the materials such as the the PVC core foam, carbon prepreg and epoxy he had as left overs from board making. The only material he had to order was the base material made from sintered UHMWPE (ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene). he got this from Tognar in the USA, who delivered within a week.

Cosmetic Repair

A lot of the cost will be in getting back the original finish which is comparable to that of repairing dints on a car. Your local motor part supplier has small aerosols which you can use to match up the colours.(Check compatiblility of solvents first). Minor dints can be re-filled with an epoxy/micro-balloon mix and rubbed down. (Can't be used on anything structural).
Tip:Use a PLASTIC base primer coat over the repaired epoxy and keep additional coloured layers thin.
Allow to dry well between coats. If its metallic, do not use any abrasive on it and keep it away from grease on your hands. Do not use the supplied lacquer, but multiple coats of epoxy which is flattened with 600-1500 wet & dry to remove pin holes & dust marks. Be careful not to cut though to the colour layer and then finish with a tough, marine, UV resistant varnish such as International Perfection 2-pack poly-urethane. (Use a mask, gloves and good ventilation). Keep the dust off for 6 hours and you should have a finish that matches or exceeds the original.
Warning: Do a test with the above varnish first as it has a very aggressive solvent, (hence the epoxy layer to seal in the paint layer).

all from
http://hartland.org.uk/ckb/repair.htm
more info about board building at:
http://www.customkiteboard.com/

A again a huge thanks to Paul for all his time energy and info!
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